Aug 14 2007

bearchel

We took one day out of our 9 days in Yellowstone National Park to go visit the Grand Teton and Jackson Hole. We didn’t have much time to explore but we saw the highlights of the Grand Teton and spent a little while walking around Jackson, not enough to know everything there was to do in town, but enough to get a feel of the place.

Grand Teton

Teton Range

Teton Range

It all started 13 to 17 million years ago when earthquakes along the Teton fault at the base of the range caused the mountains to rise and the valley floor to drop. The vertical displacement from the top of the mountains to the valley floor exceded 29, 000 feet. Most of this activity took place during the last two to five million years. Then glacial erosion formed the Teton landscape. Massive glaciers, some 3000 feet thick slowly filled the valley, eroded the mountains, then transported and deposited huge quantities of rock and glacial debris. The valley true floor lies 18, 000 feet below the surface we see today. Beautiful lakes formed at the base of the mountains.

Jackson Lake

Jackson Lake

Mount Moran

Mount Moran supports five of the dozens of glaciers in the Teton range.

Jackson Hole

Jackson Hole

You can still go on a stage coach ride when in Jackson Hole Wyoming.

Our impression of Jackson Hole was of a very pretty western town, aimed at serving the tourists, with lots of colorful shops and restaurants.

Cowboy bar

Antler Arch

Antlers Arch

Average Rating: 4.5 out of 5 based on 203 user reviews.


Aug 13 2007

bearchel

We intended to spend 7 days in Yellowstone but quickly discovered that there was so many things to see, we were going to run out of time, so we extended our stay to 9 days, which was better but still not nearly enough to see and do everything the park has to offer.

Yellowstone is the first ever National Park, it was established in 1872 when Congress passed a law intended to protect the area so it could be enjoyed by all for generations.

We camped in Fishing Bridge campground, the only RV campground with hook-ups in Yellowstone. Fishing Bridge sits right where the Yellowstone river takes it source from Yellowstone Lake.

Yellowstone Lake at an altitude of 7, 733 ft, encompasses 136 sq miles and is 430 feet deep at it’s deepest, it is the largest high elevation lake in North America. About 640, 000 years ago, major eruptions occurred at the volcanic vents of Mallard Lake Dome near Old Faithful and Sour Creek Dome near Fishing Bridge. As a result of these eruptions that measured 1, 000 times the magnitude of the 1980 Mt. St. Helens explosion, Yellowstone Lake formed. Although no major explosion has since occurred, the Mallard Lake Dome and Sour Creek Dome remain active. Known as resurgent domes, these volcanic vents continue to rise and fall with each passing year. As a result of Sour Creek’s activity, Yellowstone Lake is tilting right beneath researchers’ eyes. The lake now angles towards the south, flooding forests in the southern arm and exposing new beaches on the lake’s northern shoreline. Researchers believe it is only a matter of time before Yellowstone erupts again and clouds the continent in a sea of ash. We took a scenic cruise on the lake, and the Ranger told us that in Mississippi, researchers had found dinosaurs buried under 13 feet of ashes that came from the Yellowstone eruption. Even though the water temperature is very cold, the geothermal features at the bottom of the lake warm up a layer of water, sustaining microscopic life, which is the base of an eco-system supporting the population of native fish, it is one of the only high altitude lakes that is alive.

Lake Yellowstone

Lake Yellowstone

The Yellowstone River flows 671 miles on its course from Wyoming’s Shoshone Mountains to its eventual merger with the Missouri River and the Atlantic Ocean. The river flows north, starting at Fishing Bridge continuing over LeHardy Rapids, crossing Hayden Valley, tumbles over the Upper and Lower Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, to meet with the Lamar River at Tower Junction, then winds its way through Montana to join with the Missouri River in North Dakota. It is a spawning ground for Cutthroat Trout and is frequented by Bears and other creatures who love a good fish dinner 🙂

Yellowstone river

Yellowstone river at its source

Near Fishing Bridge, going in direction of Hayden Valley and Canyon Village, are very interesting geological features, the Mud Volcano and the Sulphur Cauldron. A unique
water system where the ground water boils away faster than it settles leaves Mud Volcano nearly devoid of water. As a result, numerous steam vents form that allow hydrogen sulfide gas vapors to escape from deep within the Earth’s surface. These vapors dissolve the area’s rock into clay and also combine with water and bacteria to form highly acidic pools. (PH 1.3 in the Sulphur Cauldron area, which is twice as acidic as battery acid) When these sulfur pools, carbon dioxide, steam, and clay join together, visitors are treated to a spectacular (and stinky) display of bubbling mudpots.

Mud Volcano

Mud Volcano

Dragon's mouth Spring

Dragon’s mouth spring belches and steams as 180 degree Fahrenheit water splashes in its underground cave.

Hayden Valley is where we saw the most Buffalos, it is also where we saw the most beautiful, bright, complete, absolutely amazing rainbow we’ve ever seen in our life. No pictures could ever do justice to that rainbow, but here is our attempt at capturing a rainbow for you guys.

RainbowRainbow

Canyon Village area The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone, what a spectacular area, the canyon ranges in depth from 800 to 1, 200 feet and in width from 1500 to 4000 feet. Erosion is largely responsible for carving the canyon and its steep rock walls display a kaleidoscope of yellows, reds, gold and oranges. It is also very special since it also features thermal vents linked to an old geyser basin.

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone

Grand Canyon of the Yellowstones

Upper Falls

The Upper Falls

Low Falls

Lower Falls

The Mammoth Hot Springs area Going to Mammoth Hot Springs from Fishing Bridge, you cross the 45th parallel which is situated halfway between the equator and the north pole. The thermal waters surface at a nearly consistent 170 degrees F. Light-colored limestone known as travertine extends from Mammoth’s popular upper formations to the Boiling River near the park’s North Entrance. Sink holes dot the area, and evidence of volcanic forces and underground thermal activity is associated with a fault line paralleling the Mammoth Hot Springs/Norris highway.

Angel Terraceterrace

The Mammoth Hot Springs Terrace

The Geysers, hot pools, springs and fumaroles of Yellowstone

The area between West Thumb and Norris is the most geologically active area of Yellowstone Park, it features hundreds of geysers, hot pools, springs and fumaroles (steam vents), the most popular and well-known being Old Faithful, the very predictable geyser erupting approximately every 91 minutes.

Old Faithful

Midway Geyser basin

Excellsior Geyser

Excelsior Geyser

Excelsior Geyser releases over 4, 000 gallons of hot water every minute in the Firehole River. It was once considered Yellowstone`s most impressive geyser, but the sheer force of its eruptions was its downfall, the pressure destroyed its underground water piping system. It used to shoot water 300 feet in the air every 20 to 120 minutes. Today it is a 200 by 300 foot gaping crater that lies dormant.

Prismatic Spring

Grand Prismatic Spring

Grand Prismatic Spring. Featuring an abundance of beautiful water, Grand Prismatic is Yellowstone’s largest hot spring and the world’s third largest spring. The spring measures 121 feet deep with a diameter spanning 370 feet. The bright colors around the spring are caused by bacterial mats, colonies of bacterias thriving in hot water. The 160F water causes the spring to be engulfed in steam.

West Thumb and Grant Village area

This area is alive with geothermal activity, hot pools and fumeroles, it is also where you can find Iza lake with its east side draining to the Pacific and the
west side flowing into the Atlantic, Isa Lake is one of the world’s only lakes that drains backwards into two oceans.

hot pool

Hot pool in West Thumb area

The Wildlife

One of the pleasure of traveling through Yellowstone is the opportunities to see wildlife in their natural habitat. Bison are plentiful and elk are easy to spot, but wolves, bears, mountain lions, bighorn sheep, beavers, eagles etc. etc are a bit harder to spot. You usually know when there are animals to be seen when you see a traffic jam on the road, actually, there is no such thing as a traffic jam in Yellowstone, you either have a Bear Jam or a Buffalo Jam or an Elk Jam etc. etc.

Buffalo Jam
Buffalo Jam

The buffalo were in rut while we were visiting, they were very active and aggressive, and spent a lot of time crossing roads, grunting and drooling at the buffalo girls, who were not ready yet… very frustrating for a healthy buffalo you know….

BuffaloBuffalo Bull

We were lucky enough to see an eagle, perched in a tree.

Eagle
Eagle

An elk was leisurely drinking water out of a stream on the side of the road, absolutely not bothered by all the attention.

Elk
Elk

The bear and the coyote. One morning, we were taking a ride down from Fishing Bridge going towards the East entrance, we saw a lot of cars parked, so we stopped to investigate what was happening, there was a Grizzly bear, digging for something, nobody knew what he was actually looking for, but he was very busy digging, then a coyote sneaked in behind trees, very intrigued by what the bear was doing, he layed down in the tall grass, observing the bear for a while. He finally jumped up and started running at the bear, who spooked, started running towards the road, everybody ran for their cars, but then the bear stopped, and looked back, saw that what had spooked him so bad was a coyote, well… he was not a happy bear for sure, so he started running after the coyote, but quit the chase early and went back to digging his hole, the coyote came back, and stayed about 20 yards from the bear, observing, once in a while he would jump, and the bear would look threatening, that would calm the coyote down for a little while, then the whole thing would start again, we stayed there about 20 minutes, observing the interaction between this very busy Grizzly and this very inquisitive Coyote, that made our day!

Grizzly and Coyote
The bear and the Coyote

We didn’t have to go very far to see wildlife, we were told that a Coyote had given birth to a litter of puppies right before we arrived, there was a small herd of buffalo, about 12 individuals who liked roaming through the campground, bears were close and we were warned not to leave food out of the motorhome, and this deer leisurely cut across the campground just in front of our coach, two days in a row.

deer

A few things to be aware of if you intend to go to Yellowstone Park; the West entrance from Idaho Falls is very tight, they are working on the problem, but in the mean time, two of the entrance booths have a 12’6″ clearance, and all of them are so narrow, there are multiple traces of impact on each sidewall from motorhome mirror hits. The East entrance is higher but as narrow, so it is very difficult to maneuver through. The best place to eat dinner is the Lake Hotel in Lake village, we had dinner at the Old Faithful Inn, it is a beautiful wood structure, food was fine but not extraordinary.

Average Rating: 4.8 out of 5 based on 287 user reviews.


Jul 26 2007

bearchel

We arrived in Pacific City on the 20th, and after a few trials and error, finally found a nice camping site in our Thousand Trail campground. We are disconnected from the world here, no cellphone signal, no internet (in the coach, but there is WiFi at the family lodge). We love the campground though, it is quiet, nice and right next to the ocean, we can hear the waves from where we are camping, some sites even have a great view of the water.

Bounder in the trees

After settling down we decided to go explore the area a little. We first went north and took the Three Capes Scenic route and ended up in Tillamook where we visited the cheese factory. The cheese didn’t impress us much, but it was hard to resist the ice cream. We then went to McMinville, to visit the Evergreen aviation museum, home of Howard Hughes impressive Spruce Goose. Made of wood, it has a wider wing span than a Boeing 747, it only flew once.

Spruce Goose

Pacific city itself is a quaint little town right next to Cape Kiwanda which offers gorgeous sunsets

Cape Kiwanda Sunset over cape Kiwanda

Road 101 going South from Pacific City offers wonderful views of the Pacific coast line.

coastlinecoastline

coastline

The old Hwy 101 offers nice surprises like this Conde B. McCullough bridge with it’s concrete arch and it’s Gothic, Tudor and Art Deco details. In 1916 Mr. McCullough started teaching engineering at Oregon Agricultural College (today Oregon State University) and in 1919 lead the state bridge program. He believed that bridges should be built efficiently, economically and aesthetically.

Conde McCullough Bridge

The Taquina Head Lighthouse, built in 1876, standing 93 feet tall on top of the cape of the same name, still working today to save the lives of seamen who navigate the treacherous waters along the coast of Oregon. It is also a good spot to watch for whales.

Taquina Head lightouse

Near the lighthouse, at low tide, you can observe aquatic life in tiny tidal pools.

Tidal PoolTidal Pool

We then stopped in Depoe Bay for a little while, and watched for whales, we saw quite a few, there is a family of Grey Whales who lives in the area year round. The Devil’s punch bowl (strange formation in the rock that looks like a giant punch bowl with waves coming in and out of it) is also a good location to observe whales.

Although the temperature has not been over 62F since we arrived here, and mostly rainy, people are still flocking to the beach and actually swimming in water that is barely above freezing temperatures, while we, Floridians, walk around with jackets on.

Crazy swimmers

A nice surprise for me, I had not seen Chipmunks since I was a kid, but they are abundant here, and so funny to watch. (Although technically, these are not really chipmunks, they are brown ground squirrels)

Chipmunks

From the beach

Beach

to the mountains

Mountains

Oregon offers ever changing sceneries which are sure to surprise and delight.

Average Rating: 4.7 out of 5 based on 295 user reviews.